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THIRTY YEARS 



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THIRTY YEARS AT THE CUTTING-BOARD: 



BEING A WORK DESIGNED TO ASSIST THE STUDENT 
TO ACQUIRE KNOWLEDGE IN 



THE ART OF CUTTING- 



CONTAINING 



A SERIES OF DIAGRAMS LAID DOWN TO MEASURE, 



AND AS USED BY US IN OUR DAILY PRACTICE. 



0\ r.Y 

^\^ILLIA.]VI LARDER. 



'' JAM 4 1883 \ 



NEW YORK. 

1883. 




Copyright, 1882, 
By WILLIAM LARDER. 



^(^'^ 



INTRODUCTION. 



Having been frequently requested to give instructions in cutting, but not having the time 
to devote to that subject, we have concluded to put our rule in the simplest possible form. 
Having used it in its present form without any material change for the past ten years, we 
believe we have succeeded in putting it in a form so that any tailor of ordinary intelligence 
can be his own teacher, and will receive instructions the value of which cannot be estimated. 
The rule is the product of thirty years' experience and continued practice. Our design is to 
instruct the uninitiated. All those whose present methods of cutting prove unsatisfactory to 
them, we would advise to try our system ; although only designed to instruct those who are 
about to adopt cutting as a profession, we believe the simplicity of this rule will recommend 
it to many, being well adapted for drafting garments on the cloth. 



GENERAL REMARKS ON GOODS. 



CUTTING AND MAKING. 

It requires good judgment and long practice to estimate tlie proper size to cut garments from 
goods of different texture, some goods being elastic, while others are stiff and hard, and will not give 
in making motions with the arms. The elastic goods will have to be cut close to oi' inside the meas- 
ures ; hard, stiff goods must be cut larger tlian the measure; very stiff goods we usually cut two 
sizes larger in widths, or the garments will look and feel too small. This rule must be observed in coats 
and pants ; it is not necessary to make any difference in vests, for the interlining in vests is always of 
stiff goods ; therefore vests, cut from an,y material, will be the same size wlien finished. Practice 
only will give tlie student the idea as to how mucli difference to make for tlie diftVieiit kinds of 
material. No very detiiute instructions can be given on this head; therefore we must leave it witli 
the student, for by practice only can the difficulty be overcome. 

OVERCOATS. 

For overcoats we have to make sufficient allowance to go over the undercoat. The difference we 
nuike is to allow 2 inches on the breast measure, if the measure is tal-en on ilie test, more or less 
according to the material used. But in most cases we observe the following rules : For a surtout 
overcoat we add | of an inch to the first measure down the back. To the short blade, | in.; to the 
length of shoulder, f in.; and to the measure over the shoulder, fin.; \ an incli to width of back, i^ an 
inch to the length of waist, and i to | of an inch on the length of sleeve ; 2 inclies to the breast 
measure, 2 on the waist, 2 on the hip, and 2 on the seat when all the measures are taken on the vest 
and pants ; in all other respects drafted the same as Diag. A, except to drop the square | of an inch 
below A, to get point K. Whatever we allow un the first measure down the back we always drop 
the square the amount added to the measure. Diagram A should be thoroughly learned before 
making an attempt to draft the other diagrams, for reference will often be made to that diagram. 

SACK OVERCOATS. 

On the first measure down the back, we alloAv in most cases 1 inch ; 1 inch to the slioulder 
length, 1 inch to the measure over the shoulder to the first measure down the back, and 1 inch to 
the blade. AVhen drafting a sack-coat add i an inch in front of the construction line for a normal 
figure, and increase the distance as the waist enlarges. We add 1 inch when the waist is 2 inches 
snmller than the breast, and for every 2 inches that the waist increases we add \ an inch, so that 
wlien the breast and waist measures are equal, we add \\ inclies in front of the construction line. 
We observe the same rule for all sacks that are cut to button all the way down. When cutting a 
coat for ;i stooping figure, observe tln^ diagrams for these forms ; the changes have been there described, 
only the back line that is carried forward at A, to produce the round, will have to be changed more 



or less, according to the degree of roundness of back. When you meet with a person out of the reg- 
ular siiape, alwaj^s take care to note it. If one shoulder should be lower than the other, put the square 
under each arm, and note the difference by a mark on the back, at the centre, above or below the 
first mark made, as the case may be, and when cutting a coat for a form of this kind, take the 
shoulder off ^ an incli at the top, and make other changes as shown on plate 20. 

Sometimes, men will be met with, witli one very prominent shoulder-blade, and the other very 
flat ; be careful and note whicli oi the two sides is the largest so as not to make a mistake when cut- 
ting, for the small side will liave to be cut Hat for such a form, and the other side piece will have to 
be cut with more round and perhaps a little wadding put in the flat side ; but it is simply impossible 
to note all the difficulties to be encountered, therefore we will only advise great care in observing 
the different builds, and study what changes to make for the various forms. 



MAKING. 

When making a frock-coat, we desire to have the following rules observed : First, always cut 
the canvas to correspond with the forepart ; if any cuts in the forepart cut the canvas also. Press 
the round on the front of forepart back, never to the front, for by so doing the lapel would be too 
round on the front, and would have to be drawn in with the edge-stay and make it very hard to get 
in the proper shape. Sew the Ijack a little easy on the round of side piece, and when joining the 
shoulder-seam, let the back go on easy. If the shoulder at the forepart should chance to be cut too 
long, let it run out at the scye, and then make the shoidder have the proper curve. Never mark the 
piece off too sudden ; perhaps the best way would be to put a thread in and make an outlet of the 
surplus. Never put the linings in small; have plenty of length and widtli in the shoulder. In mak- 
ing up the skirt press the round on the plait over the hip ; press it until straight, and baste it on the 
back easy, that is, not too short ; if put on too short, it causes the plait to roll open, and keeps the 
upper back from lying close to the under back, giving it the appearance of having too little spring. 
Put a thread around the scye from a point, say 2 inches in front of the shoulder point, and around 
the under part of scye to a point i an inch above the notch for the front of sleeve, and then stretch 
it between these two points. Cut the canvas and lining in the centre of the part stretched and put 
in a V. In making the collar, after it is padded put a strong tliread in the crease line and draw it 
in well ; this is a better way than stretching the fall and stand edges, to give it the appearance of 
being drawn in on the crease. W^hen putting on the collar it should be sewed on a little snug in 
front and just fair the remainder of the way. Be careful not to put it on too short ; if too short it 
will cause the coat to crease in front of scye and set in too close at the waist, and give the coat the 
appearance of being too long in the back, and ride up in the neck ; if put on too long it will cause 
the coat to swing out at the waist when unbuttoned, and when buttoned, the collar will set out from 
the neck. The same difficulties will occur if point K is carried too far forward or too far back, or if 
the shoulder be too short or too long. If too short, it has the same appearance as a short collar. 
Point K being too forward has also the same appearance as a short collar. If the shoulder is too 
long or point K too far back, it has the same appearance as a long collar. In making up cutaway 
coats, be careful not to put the edge- stay on too tight ; if too tight it will cause the coat to break 
back of the buttons and button-holes. The stay should be put on just tight enough to prevent the 
edge from stretching in pressing. Be careful and have the facing put in so that it does not roll to 
the front. Sometimes the canvas rolls forward when tlie facing does not ; tins is caused by the can- 
vas being too long at the back edge. 



SACK-COATS. 

Sack-coats should have tlie back put on a little long on the blade, commencing about iive inches 
from the to}} of side point ; if on too short at this point it will give the forepart the appearance of 
being too high at the side point and cause it to crease, the creases running under the arm ; it will also 
throw the coat out at the bottom, and make it look as if it had too much spring. Never draw 
the front edge in much ; just put the stay on the least snug to prevent the edge from stretching. Ex- 
cept in large sizes, when the front is cut round on the front, then draw it in until it is nearly or quite 
straight. We refer now to sacks that are cut to button all the way ; oversacks to be treated the 
same way. We prefer to have the linings of all sack-coats left open at the bottom. 



VESTS. 

Rules to be observed when making vests : Be careful never to stretch the front edge ; if with a 
collar, put the collar on a little snug to jjrevent it flaring out on the crease when it is buttoned. If 
without a collar, put a stay on the edge from the back of neck to the top button ; put it on a little 
tight, for tills part being on the bias is easilj' stretched. Stretch the front of shoulder and the 
shoulder seam, and put the interlining and lining in a little full ; this will prevent the vest from 
creasing on the shoulders. 

The directions for pantaloons are given with explanation of the diagram. 

Thk Author. 



DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES. 



This being t]ie most essential thing to acquira. in order to be successful, great care must be 
exercised to have the measures properly taken, and for a new beginner it is one of the most difficult 
things to master ; in fact, it may be asserted that the most experienced very often get mistaken. We 
have had thirty years' experience and cannot claim perfection. But we claim that our system of 
measurement is all tliat is required to produce a well-balanced garment when applied to the rule as 
laid down. We conceived the idea, several years ago, of putting a sjairit-level in a common square, 
a diagram of wliich is shown on Plate 1. We find it to answer our purposes well. We prefer to take 
all measures for coats on the vest, believing that we can get them more correct in this way. When the 
coat is taken off, adjust the vest properly, seeing that the back seam is in the centre of the back ; 
this being done, place tlie square under the arm, pressing it up tight, to be sure that nothing pre- 
vents it from going in the projjer jjlace ; after this has been ascertained, let it drop until it just 
touches without pressure. Now see that the square is on a level, and then make a mark on top of 
the square front and back of the arm. We then turn the square with the short side up, and press it 
close to tilt' hody and front of shoulder, and mark inside the square. We then turn to the back, and 
mark a point in the centre even with the bottom of the scye. Now take tlie inch meastire, jalace the end 
on the socket-bone, and call off the measure to the first mark on the back, then to the natural waist, 
full length of waist, and length of coat ; next measure across the back to get the width, continue down 
to the elbow and'wrist for length of sleeve, then around the scye; take the length of shoulder from 
the top of back at socket-bone to the bottom of scye in front ; then the short blade measure from 
the upright mark in front of scye to the centre of the back ; measure for the height of shoulder from 
the bottom of the scye in front to the first mark on the back. Measures can also be taken from the 
socket-bone around the front of shoulder, and under the arm to the centre of the back ; this we call 
the long blade measure. Continue the measure up to the starting-point for the upper shoulder 
measure ; these two measures we take to test the correctness of the short measures. Now measiire 
around the chest close under the arms, around the waist, hip and seat ; these measirres should be 
taken snug, but not tight — in fact, none of the measures should be taken tight ; on the long blade 
and upper shoulder we allow one inch on each ; if the blade measrtre is taken too loose, it will throw 
point K too far forward ; if taken too tight, point K will be too far back. 

TO MEASURE FOR A VEST. 

First from the socket-bone down to the place for the top button, and continue to the full length 
in front ; also measure to the top of the hip-bone. This measure will give the place for the bottom of 
the back strap. When a measure is taken for a double-breasted vest, measure for the opening in 
front, for the lengths as before stated. 



TO MEASURE FOR PANTALOONS. 

First ineasui-e from the top ot the hip down the outside to tlie seam of tlie heel of the boot or 
shoe, take the inside seam close up in the crutcli to the heel as before stated. Measure around the 
waist, seat, thigh, knee and bottom, all to be carefully taken. 

We will again urge upon the new beginner the necessity of having correct measures, and a con- 
tinual practice of drafting to measure ; by persevering in the study you will gain confidence. Take 
all the measures. you can of your friends, and more than once, and then compare the measures first 
taken, and see how they correspond with the last taken ; by so doing you will become more pro- 
ficient in taking measures. We don't insist that our way of taking measures is the only correct way, 
any way will do, providing the measures are correct ; but bear in mind that the length of shoulder, 
the proper lengtli of back to the bottom of the scye, height of shoulder, and the blade measures must 
be correct to have a well-balanced coat. 

On the plate facing page 8 will be found three figures showing how to place the square, the 
instructions in regard to which have been previously given. 



P L x\ T E 1 . 

DIAGRAM A. 

TO FORM THE DRAFT. 

First draw a line down the edge of the paper or cloth. Then move the square in at F 1^ inches, 
and draw a second line up to A. Then mark from A to B J to C i, to D i^ of the breast measure. To E 
1 inch less than the breast measure, say 17 inches. Full length of waist to fancy or fashion. Square 
across from the inside line at A, B, C, D, E, and F. Mark from A to Y^, from C to G^ and 1^ inches. 
Mark across from B to C at G, draw a line from X to E. The width of back at the waist 2j inches 
or what the fashion may be. Form the remainder of the back as shown in the diagram, going above 
the line at Y i an inch and as much as | for a 48 size. Mark point H ^ the breast measttre from 
D, or I of the short blade measure. Square down from H to S, D to I f . Square up to P, 1 to J 
i less i of an inch. Put the corner of the square on point J, with the long arm resting on A, and 
square up to K for the neck point. Measure from a point 1 inch in front of I up to W f of the 
breast measure and | of an inch more ; D to M, lialf of the full breast measure and 2^ inches more. 
Square up from M and over to P, M to X ^ the shoulder length, 6f, being i of 12|, the shoulder 
length ; from the socket-bone, N to ^. Curve the side piece from X to H. Mark by the back from 
X to D for the upj^er part of side piece. Now move the back, as shown bj- the dotted lines, opening 
at X one inch. Mark a point at L | an inch from the dotted line of back. Form the remainder of the 
side piece, by curving as represented, going out to the plait line at Z. Square over from Z to S. Mark 
up to T 1 inch from S, and form the bottom of the side piece. Hollow the side piece and forepart i 
of an inch each side of the line H, S, springing out at the bottom i of an inch over the line. Now 
turn the back over to the shoulder, as represented, with the corner touching at K. Drop it ian inch 
at P, opening the shoulder point from the back | of an inch. Then form the top of shoulder and 
scj-e. Draw a line from where the back touches the foiepart at the line below P over to O for 
the front of gorge, curve the gorge, as shown in diagram, place the measure i an inch back of K, and 
sweep from Z, for length of front. Measure over to Y the waist measure, and 2i inches more to allows 
for seams, if the measure is taken snug. The notch in front of scye is IJ inches above point I, to 
locate the place for front of sleeve. Measure around from the front notch to the notch in the back, 
i the scye measure, the place for the back seam of sleeve. 

This diagram was made from the following measures : First, down the back to the bottom of 
scye, 8f ; waist, 17 ; full length of waist, 18i ; width of back, 7i ; elbow, 20^ ; to the wrist, 31i ; scye, 
17i. Shoulder length, 12f ; over the shoulder to U, 17f ; short blade, 11| ; breast, 36 ; waist, 32 ; hip, 
34 ; and seat, 38. When making a draft to measure add I of an inch for seam to the tirst measure, i 
an inch to the blade measure, 2^ inches to tlie breast, and 2i to the waist measure, to allow for 
seams, etc. When the pattern is finished according to the above measures, the long blade measure 
will be 24, and the upper shouldei' 28 inches. Hollow centre-s:-am of back slightly, as shown. 



lU 



PTiATE 1 




PLATE 2 




PLATE 2. 

DIAGKAM B 

Is; for a stooping figure. Drafted to the following measures: From A to D 9i, to E 18, to F lOJ ; 
width of back, 7f ; short blade, 12 ; shoulder length, 12^ ; over the shoulder from a point 1 inch in 
front of I to U, 18 ; scye measure, 17^ ; bi'east, 36 ; waist, 3'3i ; hip, 30i ; and seat, 38. Notice the 
difference in the draft for the back. Tlie line at A is carried forward f of an inch, A, B, and C are 
squared across from the inside line, in order to shorten the distance from A to H, and to give round 
to the back from A to D, and allows the back to fall in at the waist. The opening at X is 1^ inches 
instead of one inch, as in diagram A. This is done in order to take the side piece in more at the 
bottom, giving less spring and moi'e round over the blade. The opening of the lower shoulder 
point from the back is 1 inch in place of | of an inch, as in diagram A, also one inch back of K in 
place of ^ an inch as in diagram A, to sweep for the length in front. From N to O is j\ in place of 
jV. The dotted line at the bottom of side piece shows the difference to be made from a proportionate 
to a stooping figure. 



11 



PLATE 3. 

DIAGRAM C. 

Showing how to form the skirt. First draw line A, straight with the front of fore- 
part, as shown in diagram. Square over to B, B to C 2i inches. Draw a line for the back 
part of skirt as sliown in diagram, first laying the bottom of forepart and side piece in a 
line. If the seat should be larger than the regular proportion, the top of side piece must 
be carried forward ; if smaller, then the side piece will have to be brought back to reduce 
the spring. If the skirt is cut to measure, measure the size of the seat on line D, E, allow- 
ing 2i inches over the measure, including the width of back. Make the skirt the same length 
back and front; round the back of skirt i an inch from the sti-aight line at E. as shown 
in diagram. Observe the dotted line on the forepart, at the front of gorge ; this is to be added 
when it is required to have the coat button 4 buttons, and is done to prevent a drag on tlie 
lapel when the coat is Inittoned. 



DIAGRAM D. 

Showing how to draft a sleeve, which should always be drafted by the scye measure. 
First draw line A, K, and square from O to G, O to A y\, A to B ^. Square across at 
A and B, A to C ^ tlie scye measure. Square down from C to L. and up to G ; O to E. ^ 
of an inch less than i of O G, O to D f of G ; J is | from C : A to I IJ inches; draw a 
line from I to J ; H is yV below the line B C. Now form the upper part by going above 
the line at E, and curving to the first line below D, continuing to C ; form the underpart as 
shown in diagram. Mark up from L to P IJ inches. The width of sleeve at the wrist to 
fashion or fancy. 



12 



pi.atp: 3 




PLATE 4^ 




PLATE 4. 

DIAGRAM E 

Is a four button cutaway, drafted the same as Diagram A, except I of au inch less 
on the lireast line at M, and f of an inch forward for the neck point at K, in order to make 
the collar tit close to the neck when the coat is buttoned. For the button stand add | of an 
inch. In forming the btittom of the forepart, add ^ an inch to the waist measure to give 
ease and to prevent a draw on the bottom button. Place the forepart and side piece as rep- 
resented, and then drnw a line for the spring of skirt as shown in the diagram. Drop the 
skirt in front -^ of the breast measure from A to B. and then finish the skirt as represented 
in diaaram. 



DIAGRAM F. 

Showing the back drafted separate. Fii-st draw a line even with the edge of cloth or paper. 
Move the square in at F 1^ inches, and draw a second line up to A. Square across at A, B, 
C. D, E and F. A to Y }. A to B i. to C i. to D i of the breast measure. A to E 1 
inch less than ^ of th(^ full breast measure, or if cut to measure whatever the length may 
be, width of back from C to G | and 11 inches. Mark across from B to C at G, draw a line 
from G to E, width of back at the waist. 2J inches or what the fashion may be. Finish the 
liack as shown in the diagram. 



13 



PLATE 5. 

DIAGRAM G. 
Same as Diagram E, except being a gradual cutaway. 



14 



PLATE 5 




PLATE 6 




PLATE 6. 

DIAGRAMS H, I and J. 

Showing how each piece' can be cut separate and laid down to measure. Diagram H, the 
back. First draw the lines as in Diagram F, then measure from A to D 8f and the seam. 
Continue down to E, 17 ; to F, 18^ ; B is i of AD; C is | of A D ; C to G, 7i ; A to Y, 
I of the breast measure, and carried above the square line | an inch. Width of back at 
waist, 2i inches. Now shape the back as shown. Form the upper part of side piece curv- 
ing to H, and by the back to line D. Square down from H to S, as shown in Diagram I. 
Now move the back, opening it from the side point 1 inch at X, then make a mark i an inch 
from the back at L, and curve to Z, as explained in Diagram A. Square over from Z to S ; 
mark up from S to T 1 inch ; draw a line from T to Z for the bottom of side piece. Curve 
the side piece from H to T as shown. Tliis being done, bring the side piece and back down 
on line D M, to form the forepart, D to I, the blade measure with ^ an inch added ; the 
remainder of the forepart to be finished as explained in Diagram A. 



15 



PLATE 7. 

DIAGKAM K. 

Showing tlie changes to be made for a dress-coat. The coat should be cut a little close to 
or inside the measure, usually being made to fit snug. In all other respects drafted the same 
as Diagram A, except where the changes are noted as in diagram. The opening of the skirt 
from the forepart, from A to B, is ^V o^ the breast measure ; the width of skirt to fancy or 
fashion. Cut the forepart about f an inch longer in front than you would for a frock-coat. 



16 



PLATE 7 




PLATE S 




P L A T E S . 

DIAGRAM L. 

Showing a draft for a short, stout iiiaii. Drafted to the following measures: First down the 
back i)j, IT, 181; width of hack, 8i ; to the elbow, 20; length of sleeve, 30; scye, 20 ; length 
of shoulder, 14^; over the shoulder to the first measure down the back, 20^; short blade, 13| ; 
breast, 43 ; waist, 44^ ; hip, 47 ; seat, 4n ; shoit neck and high shoulders. The lapel is cut a 
little hollow, from the top to the third button, and then rounded a little to the bottom ; the 
latter is done to oliviate the necessity of drawing the front edge in when making, and jire- 
vents a looseness on tht^ edge wlim the coat is buttoned. The waist-seam coming below the 
most prominent round, we take a cut out at the bottom of forepart, to prevent looseness on 
the seam ; in all other respects drafted the same as Diagram A. The seat being smaller than 
the hips, tile top of skirt will have to be well rounded, otherwise the skirt will have too 
miu'h s]iring ami will tlaie out at the bottom. 



17 



PLATE 9. 

DIAGRAM M. 

Showing a draft for a double-breasted sack. First draw a line, A to F ; move the square 
in i an inch at E. Then square across at A, B, C, and D, by the inside line. D to H, *. 
Square down from H by the outside line for the width of back at bottom. The upper jiart 
is drafted the same as Diagram A, except point K is carried | of an inch forward ; N to O, 
Jy ; i of an incli less from D to M, because of tliere l)eing no seam oif in front. In all other 
respects the upper part is drafted the same as Diagram A. S is the construction line, R is i 
an inch added to give ease when the coat is buttoned, and rounded out from S to R. Com- 
mencing at M, as sliown in the diagram, square down from the point where the back touches 
the forepart at the round of side-seam to T, the seat line. T to U 2 inches. Now turn the 
back over on the forepart, touching at the lower part of tlie hollow at L, and on point U. 
Then mark the side of tlie forepart by that of the back. Tlie foreimrt should l)e hollowi-d 
from the back at L 1 inch. For a close-fitting sack, the back should be hollowed more 
in the centre, and a cut taken out under the arm, from H down to tlie pocket. The aver- 
age distance of the jiockets from the bottom of the scye is 13 inches for men of mediunr height. 
Sweep for length in front as sliown in Diagram A. The remainder of tlie draft as shown 
in tlie diagram. 



PLATE 9 




PLATE lO 




PLATE 10. 

DIAGRAM X. 

:^liowing a draft for a single-breasted, cutaway sack, drafted the same as Diagram M, allow- 
ing f of an inch at M for the button stand. Raise the front of gorge for all single-breasted 
sacks. 



19 



PLATE 11. 

DIAGRAM O. 

Showing a draft for a straight saclv with the corners rounded in front. Tliis is also drafted 
the same as Diagram M, allowing f of an inch for the button stand, etc. 



•20 



PLATE 11 




PI. ATE 12 




PLATE 12. 

DIAGRAM P. 

Showing a draft for single and double breasted o\'ersacks. Drafted the same as Diagram 
M, except the additions to the measures. Sufficient must be allowed to go over the under- 
coat. In this draft the square is dropped one inch below A, to get point K. As a usual thing 
we make the following additions to the measures : From A to D, 1 inch ; D to I, 1 inch ; 1 
inch to the length at slioulder, and 1 inch to the measure over the shoulder. Apply this 
measure to a point 1 inch above D. From T to U, 3 inches. This draft to be drafted from 
the same measures as Diagram A. Further comments will be found under the head of "General 
Remarks. ' ' 



21 



PLATE 13. 

DIAGRAMS Q AND R. 

Showing how a Glengary can be cut by an ordinary oversack pattern. Make the altera- 
tions as shown in diagram. By observing the back, it will be seen that the piece represented 
by the dotted line is cut off. When this is done add to the width of the back, as shown by the 
solid line, starting from nothing at top, i an inch at the point where the mark is made to 
divide the piece cut off from the back and then running gradually out to 3^ inches at the bot- 
tom. The piece that has been cut from the back must be cut in two, the upper half to the 
forepart shoulder and the lower half to tlie top of side. Add about 1 inch to the blade and run 
it out at the bottom 2i inches or more, if the garment is to be cut very full. In making up, 
the notches in the pieces cut from the back should be joined together for a sleeved garment ; if 
without sleeves, cut by the circular line running from the shoulder to the side. Measure for 
the length of cape from the collar-seam over the shoulder to the ends of the lingers, and 
cut it as represented in the diagram. To have the garment go together fair mark the place 
for the notches on your sack pattern before marking out the Glengary, and have the notches 
come together in making. Measure for the notch in the side of cape by the back. If this 
is done carefully the gannent will be properly balanced. 



99 



PIRATE 13 




PTiATK 14- 




PLATE 14. 

DIAGRAM S. 

Showing a draft for a sack overcoat, drafted by the same measure as Diagram L. 
The hip measure l)eing 4^ inches larger than the breast, we proceed in the following manner 
to distribute the cloth. To make up for the difference between the breast and hips, we add 
2 inches in front of the construction line, and add 1 inch to the blade measure. When 
the pattern is made, take away the inch that has been added to the blade, by a cut under 
tlie arm, running down to the pocket. To get point K, make a line 1 inch from the cen- 
tre line of back between A and B, and mark a point 1 inch below A, and from this point 
square up from J to K. Appl}- the seat measure from line R back to L, including . the 
back. The seat measure over the undercoat being 47 inches, to this we add 7 inches for 
ease, 'Si inches on each side. In all other respects drafted the same as Diagram M. 



'23 



PLATE 15. 

DIAGRAM T. 

Showing a draft for a sack overcoat for a stooping figure, and drafted from the same 
measures as Diagram B. It will be observed that line S, the construction line, is brought 
back 1 inch at the waist, or say at a point 8^ inches below M (see diagram). Tlien place 
the square on this point, touching at M, and draw the line as represented. In all other 
respects drafted as Diagram P, except the line at the top of back is taken forward as 
in Diagram B, to give the effect as there noted. The object of changing the construction 
line is to bring the cloth to the front at bottom, and to reduce it a like ainount at the 
back. We prefer to do it in this way, rather than to force the cloth forward by straight- 
ening the shoulder — that is, carrying point K forward. For a very erect figure we carry 
the constriiction line in front of line R, or Just the reverse of this diagram. By this means 
it takes the cloth from tlie front at bottom, and takes it back, thereby giving more spring, 
which is required for the erect figure. Tlie construction line must be moved back or for- 
ward according to attitude. This must be left to the judgment of the cutter as to how much 
to deviate. 



24 



PLATE lo 




PIRATE 16 




PLATE IG. 

DIAGHAM U. 

Showing how to produce a surtout ulster or ulsterette, drafted to the same measure' as 
Diaoram A, witli the additions to the measures as has been previously described. From 
line R over to L, mark the seat measure. Hollow the forejjart 1 incli from the back. 
Mark the side-seam of forepart as represented, and draw the plait line, as shown. Round 
out from tlie line at L ^ an inch and run it in at the bottom of skirt. Tlie cut under 
the arm can ht^ taken out or not. If it bp desired to have tlie garment fit close, take it 
out as repi'esented. The opening at O is yV- The width of back at waist to fancy. 



•j;) 



PLATE 17. 

DIAURAM V. 

Showing how a cape or cloak can be cut by an ordinary coat pattern. First lay the back 
in the double edge of the cloth, then place the forepart with the shoulder point touching the 
back as represented in the diagiam. This i)Osition will produce a i circle. Taki:- the cut out 
at E, as shown by the dotted lines. If it be desired to increase the circle, close the back 
and foiepart nearer together at the shoulder : if entirely closed at the neck it will jiroduce a f 
circle. For a cloak all that is required is to increase the length. For an ordinary cape the 
length would lie, say from A to B 2<) inches; E to C over the shoulder 21 i inches; and from 
the front of neck to the bottom in front to I) 18^ inches. When cut in this waj it will hang- 
even. The collar should be cut the same as Diagram R, Plate ];-i, or if to button on the coat 
put a Ijnnd around the neck wide enough for button-holes except in front. The front button- 
hole should l)e in the seam, and tlie band cut to a point in front to ])revent it from crowding 
the collar uj). 



26 



PL.VrK 17 



L-JS> 




platp: ih 





PLATE 18. 

DIAGRAMS W, X, Y and Z. 

Showing how to draft different styles of vests. 

1)1 A(; RAM W, THE STA>'DARD P'OK ALL SHAPES. 

To form the draft: First draw a line down the edge of paper or cloth; make a second line 
inside and one inch from the first ; this we call the construction line. Mark on this line from 
A to B ^ of the breast measure less J of an inch from A to D, | breast measure, or if cut 
to measure apply the shoulder length from I down to the breast line or bottom of the scye. 
From D up to il ^ ; C to II Vj : A to 1 \ of an incli more than \ of the breast measure. 
jSIeasure down from I to E 19^ inches to the top of the hip, or 2^ inches more than the natural 
waist measure down the back. Make a point here half way between the first and second line ; 
put the corner of the squan' on this point witli the long arm resting on I, and square over to 
J. Measure from the inside line at E over to the first line back of J, i the waist measure. Then 
l)Ut the square ou this point and draw a line irp to G, G being ^ the breast measure from 
D. Scjuare up fioni G to K ; take ^ an incli off at this point and round down to G. Curve 
the neck as shown in the diagram. M(^asure the lengtli of front, and from this point square 
over to L ; L to F i ; from this point mark the bottom line of forepart. If tlie draft is intended 
for a doul)le-breasted vest with the lapels cut oft', cut in the first line front of the button 
marks ; if for a single-breasted, add tlie inturn as represented ; if for a double-breasted vest 
with the lapels crrt on, mark off, say \ of an inch all the way down the front. Now finish 
tlie draft as shown in the diagram. 

DIAGRAM X. 

Showing how to form the back. First draw a line from A to E ; then nuiik from A to B 
1^ inches ; A to C \r of the breast measure ; B to D ^ the breast measure ; or if cut to meas- 
ure, take the measure down the back as taken for the coat. Square across at A, B, C and 
D ; D to G ^ the breast measure and 1 inch more. Measirre the length of the forepart 
shoulder- seam, and apply this length from F to H on line G for the length of the back 
shoulder-seam ; the width of back at the waist i the waist measure and 1 inch more. Now 
finish the back as represented in diagram. The forepart adjoining this back is for a double- 
breasted' vest with the lapels cut on. 

DIAGRAM Y. 

Showing a draft for a dress vest. The front line is carried full ^ an inch forward at the 
top button mark. In all other respects drafted the same as Diagram W, except opening low 
in front. 

DIAGRAM Z. 

Drafted thi^ same as Diagram W, the only difference being in the collar. 

27 



PLATE 19. 

DIAURiiMS AA. BB, and CC, SHOWING HOW TO DRAFT PANTALOONS. 



AA, THE FOUErAKT. 



First draw a line A to 1), the outside lengtli, D to B the inside length, B to C i of the 
outside length. D to L Jj of the seat measure, increased to an i or more for Lirge sizes. 
Make a second line from B to L. Square across b\' the outside line at A. B, C and D ; 
B to E i less jV ; D to E at tlie bottom the same. Draw tlie centre line E. E : E to F 1^ 
inches ; E to G | ; G to Ki ; G to J ^ : from K to H I. Square up from G to the top at O, 
draw a second line from H to O. making the distance between the two lines at top half of II G : 
G to N ^v ; curve from N to J. and from N to K as represented in the diagram. I^ to E is 
half the bottom width ; E to N tlie second lialf. Draw a line 'from J to N, and from K as 
reijresented ; O to M i an inch less than i the waist measure : that is. i of I.")!. 31^ being the 
full waist, all the other divisions are divisions of the ^ seat measure 19, the full seat measure 
being 38. Round down from M to B. Finish the bottom of the forepart as represented in the 



diagiam. 



DIAGRAM BB. 



Now place the forepart as represented in Diagram BB. Mark point I half way between 
H and J : continue line F up to C ^ above the top of front : draw the seat line from I to C : 
from I to P ^ ; then curve as shown in the diagram. Make the width of knee and l)ottom 
to the measure. Sweep from M to D, tlien measure from a point lialf way between the lines 
at O to M, and from C to D ^ the full waist measure and one inch more ; add 2 inches and 
the seams to the seat measure ; take the inch that has been added to the waist out at X : 
hollow the top of the seat as shown in diagram, and the bottom also finished as shown. For 
tight-fitting pants reduce the fork point of the underside, and take an equal amount off all 
the Avay to the bottom ; this prevents the inside seam from becoming too hollow. We think 
the straighter the inside seam is cut the better tlie pants will fit. 

DIAGItAM CC. 

Showing the changes to be made for stout waists. We invariably raise tlie front above 
the square line f of an inch for every 2 inclies that the waist increases in size, starting the 
additions from 35. Draw line H, square up with G, and round the lines G and H as sliown. 
The distance from I to P should be reduced, for it usually occurs that men with large waists 
and seats have small thighs in proportion to the other measures. If the seat measure is 
smaller than the waist, it will not be necessary to take the cut out at X as in Diagram BB ; in 

28 



PLATE 19 




P LATE 20 




reducing the size of the knee it should be done at the outside seam. If it be desired to cut spring- 
bottom pants, tlie line at L should be taken further in, and also the inside line at N, it being 
necessary to have a narrow forepart so that the sides can be stretched down and shrunk in at 
the_ centre better, for it is almost impossible to shrink a wide forepart in the centre sufficient to 
produce tlie desired effect. What the forepart has been reduced in width must be added to the 
back part. Line L should be dropped i an inch for the extra length required for spring- 
bottom jiants ; it should also be rounded on the front. Pantaloons (nit for men with large 
calves and set back should have a ronnd cut on the underside below the knee at the outside 
seam, and fulled on to the forepart ; this will require to have an additional length also, more 
or less lengtii according to tlie size of calf, and the fuhaess pressed back to the centre. It 
is also a good plan to shrink the underpart al)ove tlie knee, to take the loose cloth from 
this part and make it conform to the sliape of tlu; leg. 

For men with knees turni'd out the inside seam should be more hollowed; if the knees 
are turned in then hollow the outside seam more. For men with very large seats, requiring 
greater length to go over this part, point F should lie brought nearer to E, and point C 
raised more above the square line of front. If for small seats point F should be carried 
more forwai'd. Point C remains the same as in Diagram BB ; how much these points should 
be moved must be left to the judgment of the cutter, for no special rule can be laid down to 
govern these changes, the oltject being to give the cloth where it is required. 

Measures for pantaloons. — When using the measures observe the following rule : add a seam to 
tile rise, 2 inches and tlie seams to the seat measure — we have added 3 inches to the close thigh 
measure ; add the seams in addition, also add the seams at the km^e and bottom. Measure the 
thigii measure ] inch below the crotch line on the non-dress side. The dress not taken out below 
32, and seldom above tliat for stock pantaloons. 

Rise 7^ 7| 8 8^ 8i 8i 8| 9 9 9^ H Qf 10 lOj 10^ lOj- 11 11^- 11^ llf l'> 12^ m 

Leg 24 25 2ii 27 38 29 30 31 32 32^33 33^33*34 34 34 33f 33+ 33 32^32 31+31^ 

Waist ....24J 25i 35i 36i 27 28 28^29^30 30+31^32^34 35 36+38 39| 4U 43 44 45+47 49 

Hip 28 29 30 31 32 33 .34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49+50+ 

Thigh.... 19+ 20 30^21 21+32 32+23 33+24 34+25 25+36 26+27 37+28 38+29 39^ 30+ 31i 

Knee 14+ 14| 15^ 15f 16^ 16+ 16f 17 17i 17+ 17f 18 18i 18+ 18f 19 19 19^19119+191 20 20i 

Bottom. ..I4f 15 15^ 16 IC.^ lOJ 17 17^^ 17^ 171 IS 18i 18J 18J 19' 19i 19+ 19+ 19+ 19f 19f 19| 20 



29 



The two opiDosite tables of measures are designed for tlie purpose of making block or stock 
patterns. Tlie chief object being to instriiet the student by having the measures to refer to, he can 
select any measure from either of the tables, and can draft a pattern of any size desired from 24 to 
48 inches, breast measure ; wliicli we believe will be instructive to a n^w bi^ginner. When drafting 
the small sizes add | of an inch td the measure of 24, 25, and 26 : i an inch to 27, 28, 29, and 30 ; iof 
an inch to 31, 32, 33, and 34. Reduce the large sizes as follows : 41, 42, and 43, I of an inch on each 
size ; 44, 45, and 46, i an inch on each ; 47 and 48, f of an inch. The small sizes require to 
be cut larger in proportion to medium sizes, because, there ifi not cloth enoitf/h to stretch to 
ma/ie them easy, the large sizes having too much we reduce them as directed. To tind the seat 
lini', add the length of natural waist from the bottom of the scye to the rise of pantaloons, and 
take off \\ inches. Take, say size 36 breast, from the bottom of the scj^e to the waist line, 8 
inches; the rise of pantaloons, 38; hip measure, 9^ ; rise, 8 and 9|, 17^ inches; \\ inches off 
makes the seat line 16 inches from the bottom of scye. For sizes above 42 breast take off 2 inches. 
When drafting the small sizes, from 24 to 29, drop the back \ of an inch below P instead of h, an 
inch as in diagi-am A ; from 30 to 34, f of an inch ; 35 to 40, \ an inch ; 41 to 46, f of an inch ; 47 
and 48, \ of an inch ; or use thn measures to get the height of shoulder, the seat measure use to 
get the spring of skirt. 

We never take a balance measure to the natural waist, believing if the measures for the upper 
part of coat are correct the lower part will fall into its proper place. The tables of measures we 
have estimated from a very large number taken by us drrring the past 30 years, and if used as 
directed will produce easy garments. 



30 



SACKS FROM 24 TO 34 INCHES. 



Breast 24 25 26 37 28 

Depth of scve on the back.... G^ 0| 6f GJ 7^ 

Natural waist 1 H Hi^ 12^ 13 ISf 

Leugtli Ill 20 211 22A 23^ 

Width of back 5^ 5f H 5i C 

To elbow 12 12^ i:}i 14: 14| 

Sleeve length 20 21 22 23 24^ 

Around the scye 12 12§ 12f 13^ 13^ 

Shoulder length 9^ 4 'Jl lOi lOf 

height 12f 13J 13f ISJ 14^ 

Sliort blade Ti 8^ 8^ 8| 8^ 

Breast 24 25 26 27 28 

Waist 24 244 25 25^ 26 

Hip 25A 26^ 26| 27i: 27f 

Seat 20 27 28 29 30 



29 

7f 

2U 
01 
15A 
25i 
134 
lOj 
14| 

29 
20f 
28^ 
31 



30 

n 

254 

20f 

Hi 
10| 
15 

9^ 
30 
27i 
29 
32 



31 

n 

15 
26f 
04 
IGf 
28 
151 

Hi 

15^ 

9* 
31 
284 
304 
33 



32 

8 
154 

274 

61 
17i 
29 
154 

llf 

15f 

104 

32 

29 

31 

34 



33 

8i 
10 
28 

6f 

m 

294 

15i 

12 

10^ 

104 

33 

294 

314 

35 



34 

8| 
104 

19 
30 
164 

164 

lOJ 

34 

30i 

32i 

36 



FROCKS FROM 34 TO 4S INCHES. 



Breast 34 35 

.r)epth of scye on the back. . . . 8| 8i 

Natural waist 16^ 164 

Full length of waist 174 18 . 

Full length of coat 354 36:^ 

AVidth of back Gi 7|" 

To elbow '..19 194 

Sleeve length 30 304 

Around the scye lOi lOJ 

Shoulder length 12i 124 

height lOJ 17A 

Short blade 10^ 11^ 

Breast.. 34 35 

Waist 301 31 

Hip 324 33 

.Seat 30 37 



30 


37 


38 


39 


40 


41 


42 


43 


44 


45 


40 


47 


48 


8f 


9 


H 


H 


n 


9i 


10 


101 


l«i 


lOf 


104 


m 


lOf 


17 


174 


17$ 


IS 


181 


181 


184 


m 


isi 


181 


18 


18 


18 


184 


m 


m 


19f 


194 


19f 


20 


20 


201 


201 


201 


20i 


20 


37 


38 


39 


394 


40 


41 


41 


41 


41 


41i 


41 


404 


40 


n 


7f 


7f 


7i 


8 


8i 


Si 


8|- 


84 


8| 


8f 


8* 


9A 


20 


204 


21 


21i 


214 


2 If 


2 If 


21f 


21i 


214 


214 


22 


22 


31 


314 


32 


324 


33 


33i 


334 


33f 


334 


33f 


334 


33| 


331 


171 


I'f 


18 


ISi 


184 


19 


19i 


m 


lOf 


20 


m 


■m 


214 


12f 


13i 


13f 


13f 


14 


141 


144 


14| 


15 


151 


151 


lot 


15^ 


17f 


m 


18f 


19i 


191 


20 


20| 


20i 


m 


211 


214 


21f 


22 


114 


llf 


121 


124 


12f 


13i 


131 


13i 


m 


m 


Hi 


144 


m 


30 


37 


38 


39 


40 


41 


42 


43 


44 


45 


40 


47 


48 


32 


33 


344 


35^ 


37 


384 


401 


42 


434 


444 


40 


474 


50 


34 


35 


304 


37.; 


39 


404 


424 


444 


451 


40f 


484 


50 


53 


38 


39 


40 


11 


42 


43 


44 


45 


40 


47 


48 


494 


504 



31 



